Finished the burn tube part of the mould tonight, that means the actual mould design is finished! Just need to touch stuff up, make sure that hopefully I can take this thing apart when the mould sets, make sure it will hold still while the concrete sets and doesnt lift up anywhere or anything. So 8 days so far, not quite a week, but meh its basically ready to pour now.
I sealed the internal parts together with silicon that was laying around, which hopefully will be easy enough to break apart once the mould has set, but strong enough to hold for any shocks or whatever when I pour the mould.
Yesterday I was able to source some 190mm diameter cardboard tube for free, which will make a perfect vertical burn tube size. Today I’m drawing up the dimensions for the concrete mould, and I found out I can get a 25kg bag of high temperature cement for $40, which should hopefully be enough for the jawb.
Now to make the mould dimensions, and get it made.
So the base of the mould is 2 sheets of ply thick, then there’s a bunch of stuff going on on top of that. All these cut off’s will go on the bottom, to create an air gap for thermal insulation on the bottom.
TL;DR: I made a rocket stove for the fun, by designing a concrete mould to work with a 44 gallon drum… It’s not optimal (well fine as a space heater), I think the smaller steel designs seem to work faster. That may be next to build.
Due to it being winter, and my room being freezing, I’ve been looking at various heating methods. Although I can’t really put a rocket stove in my room, I want to build one anyway, as they would appear to be really sweet, and the ability to very efficiently create heat energy focused on a stove top creates opportunities for many fun. I’m thinking heat pumps, peltier power generation, steam generation… So, I want to have a rocket stove built by the end of the week based on the standard 44 gallon drum model. Here you can see a horizontal cross section sketch, top down sketch and a larger horizontal diagram showing preliminary dimensions:
Stand off bracket connecting racing seat to seat rail.
7-7-14, Seat bracket:
Balancing the person in the sim will be done using an electric seat motor and rail set. The rail set provides balancing on 2 axis, vertical and horizontal. The rail set has mounting holes for a different seat, so I needed to design a bracket.
First Design, mild steel rectangular tube.
Attachment to rail set is by nut within the bracket, the nut is custom machined as described in the image below. Planning to implement a bar going across joining the two brackets as an anchor point for the anti-submarine 6 point harness. Also, tonight I watched lawn mower man. I all have to say is hrmmmm, about that
Started designing a fully 3d flight sim, with Oculus Rift as vision.
-> Motor Control (Motor selection, Motor controllers, software interface, Emergency stop + reset)
-> Sim Software (Needs to work with Occulus + head tracking + motors)
-> USB joystick (+ rudders)
-> Hardware (bearings/shaft electrical connections/frame design + construction)
having the graphics computer rotating with the seat or outside the apparatus:
inside (most likely):
-HDMI direct to occulus.
-Only motor data and power connections from computer through rotating electrical contacts.
-possibly requires SSD for computer due to motion.
-Motor Control hardware either inside or outside frame connected to computer via (x-sim?!) USB industrial motor controller? + Secondary motor backup control outside frame.
-requires running HDMI and USB through rotating electrical contacts
-only require 1 computer for all controls
Having motor controllers outside Vs 1 in for roll and 1 out for pitch
1 inside (with computer inside):
-mains voltage coming in to pitch motor.
-Roll motor controller connects direct to computer, pitch control signal goes outside.
Both outside (computer inside with motor control signal going through inter connects):
-Roll motor current cables going through interconnects.
-Motor control data going out through slip-ring.
-Also requires power for computer coming in through slip ring.
Yesterday I finished the install of a Wireless Access point I’ve been working on for a while. It consists of a high gain wifi antenna on my roof, connected to an access point, and thats connected to my home computer network. The Access point is a Mikrotik RB411UAHR built into a Jaycar 5050 Aluminium enclosure ( with the plastic cover from an A4 folder to insulate the board :p ).
The Antenna is a 24dBi Grid antenna I’ve had sitting around for a while. Because we’re renting here I designed an antenna mast that is removable. To do that I took measurements of the chimney and built a mast..
I ran a network cable I had sitting around down the chimney and into a Power over Ethernet adapter. In order to align the antenna I used trusty google earth.
Sub install blog for my 1997 90 series Toyota Prado:
Aug 2013: Love it when things come together. 80W stereo Response Amp (160W) running bridged into a dual 250W(?) voice coil Vifa Subwoofer Driver, (12″ version), coils wired in series, with a grille on the front, in a ported house.
Antenna power cable only gives power when the radio is on… I had to rewire this and I chose to power on the amp from the ACC/ignition trigger cable on the radio. This way the amp can be on regardless of the radio, not perfect but better.
Waiting for boss stereo attenuator, need to wire the juicy cables in the mean time..
Wired in the amp and the speaker today… all works well.
I had to take the cover off the front dash again, just to confirm the polarities on the speaker cables, didnt want one channel to be on the opposite phase to the other…
There is one thing I can still do, I wired a cable from the amp up behind the steering wheel which is for remote volume control for the amp, but I lost the volume knob… maybe a job for another day.